Mestia: Winter Fun in the Great Caucasus

Skiers will find the peaks in Georgia’s Svaneti well worth the trip.

High in the Great Caucasus Mountains, in the upper western part of Georgia, you’ll find the uniquely beautiful land of Svaneti. This destination is a hiking paradise during the summer when adventurers travel from Mestia to Ushguli on a four-day trek. Its charm continues as the weather turns chiller.

Mestia, the capital of Svaneti, is graced with an elevation of 1500 meters above sea level, surrounded by plenty of peaks featuring varsity-level skiing, and some of the best freeriding in the country. Plus, there’s a tight-knit community that will make you feel like family the second that you arrive.

“Mestia is a small city where everyone knows everyone,” says Natia Tsigriashvili, co-founder of WT Georgia, a company that offers year-round tours of Svaneti and greater Georgia. “If you stay for one week, you’ll probably meet every local there. You’ll ski during the day, and in the evening you’ll hang out with people socially.”

Taylor Beckwith-Ferguson, founder of Vagabond Adventures, considers Mestia to be one of the best places in Georgia to hit the slopes.

“If you’re a skier or snowboarder, it’s an awesome place…It has world-class advanced-level skiing and freeriding,” he says. “It has big steep mountains, a lot of snow, and it’s not crowded. The ski resorts are good, and the infrastructure is very modern. It’s better than a lot of places in the U.S. or Alps, and it comes at Georgian prices.”

Vagabond Adventures organizes weeklong, all-inclusive backcountry ski trips and day trips with local guides, who have been certified by the Georgia Mountain Guide Association. Vagabond Adventures also provides transportation to Svaneti from any major hub in Georgia, and the team can create a personalized package for your schedule and activity level. If you want your skiing with a side of tradition and the chance to check out Svaneti’s ancient Lamproba festival in February, WT Georgia offers a four-day tour that combines skiing and cultural activities.

Mestia has two ski resorts: Hatsvali, which is within walking distance from the town square, and Tetnuldi-Alpine Ski Resort, which is about an hour away, and you’ll need to take a shared Delica vehicle to the slopes. Although Tetnuldi Mountain is a bit of a trek, it’s worth the effort, if you’re looking for varsity-level powder and the ability to chart your own path. “It’s a freerider’s dream to be able to ski a whole bunch of slopes without the crowds,” Taylor Beckwith-Ferguson says.

Visiting Mestia is also an excellent way to experience Svan culture, learn about the iconic Svan towers and village rivalries, and visit the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography.

Staying and Dining in Mestia

There are plenty of guesthouses, hotels, and Airbnb in Mestia, plus ample places to eat, ATMs, local grocery stores, and other conveniences. While you’ll have your choice of accommodations, it’s wise to keep the winter road conditions in mind. “Unless you have a car, it’s a good idea to stay in the city center,” Natia Tsigriashvili says. “It’s really difficult to walk because the streets are frozen. Hotel Mestia Inn, Hotel Posta Mestia, and Ushba Guesthouse are all excellent options.”

The Ushba Guesthouse also features a traditional Georgian restaurant serving Svan specialties. Cafe Laila is another excellent option. It offers vegetarian and vegan fare, strong coffee, and excellent views of the Great Caucasus Mountains from its roomy patio.

Best Tips for Visiting

Since the mountains can be unpredictable, avalanches can and do happen on the road to Mestia. Check the weather conditions before you go, and keep in mind that, if the road closes, you might be prolonging your trip by another couple of days.

You can rent ski and snowboard gear in Mestia, but options are limited. It’s advisable to call a day in advance to check on and reserve your size or bring your gear with you. Warm, waterproof clothes are a must.

Logistics for Getting to Mestia

You can fly from Tbilisi’s Natakhtari Airfield to Mestia’s Queen Tamar Airport on Vanilla Sky Airlines. It takes roughly an hour. While flying is arguably the quickest and best way to go, bad weather can cause flight delays or cancellations, and tickets often sell out.

You can also take a minibus from Tbilisi or a train to Zugdidi and a minibus from there. The minibus, or minibus and train combination, is cheaper and more widely available than flying, but you’ll spend at least nine hours on the road.

Alternatives to Mestia

Gudari is a quick and easy option with plenty of beginner ski slopes, which is an ideal getaway from Tbilisi. Vagabond Adventures runs its twenty-instructor ski school from Gudari. Bakuriani is another excellent choice if you’re new to skiing, and it’s also a very family-friendly winter destination. Those looking for serious snow will want to check out Goderdzi in Adjara. The ski resort is about an hour and a half away from Batumi and its location is close to the Black Sea, which means that it gets plenty of snow and is a fun place for freeriding.